Raw denim fabric from India in 100% cotton rigid construction, unwashed and indigo or indigo-sulphur dyed. 10 to 14.5 oz 3/1 RHT and LHT twill, supplied in bulk rolls for jeans and jacket makers.
Additional information
| Weight (oz) | 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 14.5 |
|---|---|
| Composition | 100% Cotton |
Product Overview
Raw Denim Fabric in 100% Cotton Rigid Construction from India
Unwashed, indigo dyed 3/1 twill for classic jeans and jackets
Raw denim fabric is 100% cotton denim that leaves the mill unwashed and without stretch, so it keeps its full indigo colour, stiff hand and natural shrinkage. It fades only where the wearer creases it, which is why denim brands use it for heritage jeans and jackets. Newton Exports supplies rigid raw denim from Indian mills in 10 to 14.5 oz, right-hand and left-hand twill, ring-spun or open-end, with mill test reports for every lot.
10-14.5 oz
Weight range (339-492 GSM)
100%
Cotton
3/1
RHT or LHT twill
0%
Elastane, fully rigid
Raw Denim Types
Sanforized vs Unsanforized Raw Denim
Raw denim is sold in two finishes. The choice decides how much the garment will shrink.
01
Sanforized raw denim
Pre-shrunk mechanically at the mill, so residual shrinkage is about 1 to 3%. Garments can be cut to the final size. This is the choice for most commercial raw denim jeans.
02
Unsanforized (loomstate) raw denim
Not pre-shrunk, so it can shrink 8 to 10% on the first soak. Used for shrink-to-fit jeans and by brands that wash garments after sewing.
03
Ring-spun vs open-end
Ring-spun yarn gives a softer hand, more character and better fades. Open-end yarn is more even, stronger and lower in cost.
Feature
Sanforized
Unsanforized
Residual shrinkage
1-3%
8-10%
Cutting
Cut to size
Allow for shrinkage
Hand
Softer, flatter
Stiff, more texture
Best for
Commercial raw jeans
Shrink-to-fit, garment wash
Shrinkage measured to AATCC 135. Values are typical and confirmed per quality.
If you need more information, bulk pricing or a quote for FOB / CIF / CFR rates, click on the Enquire Now button or contact us.
Applications
6 Uses of Raw Denim Fabric
Five-pocket jeans
The classic use. 12 to 14 oz rigid denim for straight, regular and relaxed fits that fade with wear.
Denim jackets
Trucker and chore jackets in 12 to 14.5 oz hold their shape and build character over time.
Garment-washed denim
Brands cut raw denim and then stone, enzyme or bleach wash the finished garments to their own look.
Heritage collections
Raw ring-spun denim for premium lines where buyers want natural fades and an authentic hand.
Workwear
Rigid cotton denim is strong and breathable for work jeans, overalls and aprons.
Bags and accessories
Totes, aprons and caps use rigid denim for its strength and clean indigo colour.
Weight Guide
Raw Denim Weight Guide: oz to GSM
Denim weight is quoted in ounces per square yard. One oz equals about 33.9 GSM.
Weight
GSM
Best garments
10 oz
339
Lighter jeans, shirts, warm climates
11 oz
373
Year-round jeans
12 oz
407
Standard raw jeans
13 oz
441
Jeans and jackets
14 oz
475
Heavier jeans, jackets
14.5 oz
492
Jackets, workwear
If you need more information, bulk pricing or a quote for FOB / CIF / CFR rates, click on the Enquire Now button or contact us.
Technical Data
Raw Denim Fabric Specifications
Parameter
Typical value
Composition
100% cotton
Weight
10 to 14.5 oz/sq yd (339 to 492 GSM), +/-5%
Width
58 to 62 inch cuttable
Weave
3/1 right-hand (RHT) or left-hand (LHT) twill, broken twill on request
Yarn
Ring-spun, open-end or slub warp and weft
Dye
Indigo, indigo-sulphur bottom or top
Finish
Unwashed, sanforized or unsanforized, singed
Shrinkage (AATCC 135)
1 to 3% sanforized; 8 to 10% unsanforized
Tear strength (ASTM D1424)
Typically 3,000 g or more in warp and weft for 12 oz and above
Rubbing fastness (ISO 105-X12)
Dry 3, wet 1 to 2 for raw indigo
Skew
Set to buyer standard, usually 2 to 6% for RHT
HS code
520942 (denim, 85% or more cotton, over 200 GSM)
Specifications are typical. Exact values come from the mill test report for each lot.
Testing and Certifications
Tests and Certifications for Raw Denim
Mill test reports are shared for every lot, and third-party testing can be arranged before shipment.
01
Shrinkage and skew
AATCC 135 or ISO 6330 for shrinkage and AATCC 179 for skew movement.
02
Colour fastness
ISO 105-X12 rubbing and ISO 105-C06 washing. Raw indigo crocks more, so agree wet rubbing grades upfront.
03
Strength
ASTM D5034 grab tensile and ASTM D1424 tear strength.
04
Weight and construction
ASTM D3776 for weight, with ends and picks per inch.
05
Chemical safety
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and ZDHC MRSL compliant qualities available.
06
Sustainable cotton
BCI, organic (GOTS, OCS) and recycled (GRS) cotton raw denims on request.
Denim Terms
8 Terms Buyers Use When Buying Raw Denim
01
Raw or dry denim
Denim that has not been washed after weaving and dyeing.
02
Sanforized
Mechanically pre-shrunk at the mill to limit shrinkage in the garment.
03
Loomstate
Unsanforized fabric straight from finishing, which shrinks on the first wash.
04
Rope dyeing
Indigo dyeing of warp yarn in ropes, giving a white core that creates fades.
05
Sulphur bottom or top
Sulphur dye under or over indigo to change the cast and fade.
06
Cast
The undertone of the indigo, such as red cast, green cast or neutral.
07
Slub
Uneven yarn with thick and thin places that gives a vintage texture.
08
Skew
Twist of the twill line that is set at the mill to stop leg twisting.
Container Loading
Raw Denim Container Loading
Rolls of about 100 to 120 m, wrapped in poly film and an HDPE outer, each about 0.16 CBM.
150-160
rolls per 20 ft
10-11 MT
per 20 ft, about 25-27 CBM
350-370
rolls per 40 ft HC
23-25 MT
per 40 ft HC, about 58-62 CBM
Container
Weight
Volume
Approx. metres
20 ft
10-11 MT
25-27 CBM
16,000-18,000 m
40 ft HC
23-25 MT
58-62 CBM
37,000-42,000 m
Estimates for 12 to 13 oz qualities. Final figures come from the packing list.
Need raw denim fabric in bulk from India?
Request a QuoteBefore You Order
6 Things to Check Before Ordering Raw Denim
01
Sanforized or not
Decide whether you want pre-shrunk fabric or loomstate for shrink-to-fit or garment washing.
02
Indigo cast
Send a reference or ask for lab dips to fix the shade and cast before bulk.
03
Wash test
Ask for a wash panel showing how the fabric fades with your wash recipe.
04
Skew and twist
Agree the skew setting so legs do not twist after washing.
05
MOQ and lead time
Developed qualities typically start at 3,000 to 5,000 m per shade, with 30 to 45 days lead time.
06
Roll labelling
Confirm roll length, shade and lot labels, and the packing list format.
Denim Range
More Denim Fabrics from India
FAQs
Raw Denim Fabric FAQs
What is raw denim fabric?
Raw denim fabric, also called dry denim, is denim that has not been washed or distressed after it is woven and dyed. It is usually 100% cotton and rigid, with no elastane, so it feels stiff at first and keeps its deep indigo colour. Because the indigo sits on the outside of rope-dyed yarns, raw denim fades only where the wearer creases and rubs it, such as the knees, thighs and pockets. That personal fade pattern is why raw denim is used for heritage jeans, premium jeanswear and jackets.
What is the difference between sanforized and unsanforized raw denim?
Sanforized raw denim has been mechanically pre-shrunk at the mill, so it shrinks only about 1 to 3% when the garment is washed. Brands can cut it to the final size. Unsanforized, or loomstate, raw denim has not been pre-shrunk and can shrink 8 to 10% on the first soak, and it also twists more. It is used for shrink-to-fit jeans and by brands that garment-wash after sewing, where the pattern is graded up to allow for the shrinkage. Most commercial raw denim orders use sanforized fabric.
What weight of raw denim is best for jeans?
Most raw denim jeans are made from 12 to 14 oz fabric (407 to 475 GSM), which gives a sturdy feel, good fades and comfort in most climates. 10 to 11 oz is lighter and better for warm markets, summer jeans and shirts. 14 to 14.5 oz suits jackets and buyers who want a heavier, more rugged pair of jeans. Heavier raw denim takes longer to break in but develops sharper fades. Weights above 14.5 oz are covered in our heavyweight denim range.
Is 100% cotton denim better than stretch denim?
Neither is better; they suit different fits. 100% cotton rigid denim is stronger, breathes better, holds its shape in straight and relaxed fits, and fades with more contrast. It also has no elastane, which makes it easier to recycle. Stretch denim contains 1 to 6% elastane, so it is more comfortable in slim and skinny fits and needs no break-in, but it can bag at the knee over time. Many brands use rigid raw denim for men's straight and heritage lines and stretch denim for women's and skinny fits.
What is the MOQ for raw denim from India?
For developed raw denim qualities, Indian mills typically ask for 3,000 to 5,000 metres per shade or construction, because each order needs its own warp, rope dyeing and finishing set-up. Running qualities that a mill already produces can often be supplied in smaller lots. A new construction, special cast, slub yarn or custom finish will usually need the higher minimum and a longer lead time of 45 to 60 days. Share your weight, cast, yarn type and quantity, and Newton Exports will match you with suitable qualities.
What tests should I ask for when buying raw denim?
Ask for shrinkage after washing to AATCC 135 or ISO 6330, which is critical for raw denim, and skew movement to AATCC 179 so the legs do not twist. Ask for rubbing fastness to ISO 105-X12, since raw indigo crocks more than washed denim, and agree the wet rubbing grade upfront. For strength, check grab tensile to ASTM D5034 and tear strength to ASTM D1424. Mill test reports are shared for every lot, and third-party testing by labs such as SGS, Intertek or TUV can be arranged before shipment.
How many metres of raw denim fit in a container?
A 20 ft container holds about 150 to 160 rolls of 12 to 13 oz raw denim, roughly 16,000 to 18,000 metres, 10 to 11 MT and 25 to 27 CBM. A 40 ft high cube container takes about 350 to 370 rolls, roughly 37,000 to 42,000 metres, 23 to 25 MT and 58 to 62 CBM. Heavier qualities reach the container weight limit before the space is full, so the metres drop as the weight rises. Final figures depend on roll length and are confirmed on the packing list before dispatch.
What is the HS code for raw denim fabric?
Raw denim of 100% cotton weighing more than 200 GSM is classified under HS 520942, woven fabrics of cotton, denim, containing 85% or more cotton by weight. All raw denim in the 10 to 14.5 oz range is well above 200 GSM, so this heading applies to most orders. Denim with less than 85% cotton is classified under other headings according to its blend. The exact 8-digit code for each shipment is confirmed on the commercial invoice and packing list based on the final composition and weight.
Specifications are typical and confirmed per order.
If you need more information, bulk pricing or a quote for FOB / CIF / CFR rates, click on the Enquire Now button or contact us.
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